Light
Light is a key ingredient in successful orchid growing. Too much light will burn the leaves, too little light - or light at the wrong time will stop the plants from flowering, Follow these tips to make sure your plants are receiving the illumination they need to grow and bloom. Turn plants occasionally to keep them from becoming lopsided. Don't turn them when they are in bud, though, or the flowers may twist around at awkward angle to face the sun. Move an underexposed orchids into stronger light one step at a time over a period of several weeks. If you are using a light meter, try to increase the light intensity by no more than 100 to 200 candles at a time. Remove plants from full sun once their flowers have opened. Bright sunlight can make the colours fade. Watch new acquisitions closely to be sure they don't burn before they adapt to a possibly stronger exposure than that to which they were accustomed. If you suspect a plant is receiving too much sun, feel the leaves. If they feel noticeably warmer than the surrounding air, to the touch of your fingers, reduced the light intensity. Be sure to keep your plants and windows clean - dust and dirt block valuable sunlight and rob your indoor garden of sustenance. Some orchids need a period of uninterrupted darkness at night in order to flower. Plants growing in a living area may be prevented from flowering by the illumination of a single table lamp.
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Temperature
Temperatures can vary considerably throughout a growing area.
At night, the temperature is coolest next to the windows and warmest near the floor. You can take advantage of these
small-scale variations in temperature or eliminate them by mixing the
air with a fan. When in doubt, place a maximum - minimum thermometer in the area so you will know precisely what temperature your plants are experiencing within 24-hour period. Place orchids with lower temperature needs closer to the floor and those with higher temperature needs on shelves above them. Those on the top shelf will likely experience the highest temperatures. Hang plastic curtains around windows to create microclimates that are cooler at night and warmer during the day. Don't let plants touch the windows in the winter in cold regions. Use a fan to circulate warm air or bring cool air in from another part of the house. Be on the alert for any hot or cold drafts that may blow directly on your orchids.
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Humidity
There are many ways to increase the humidity in a growing area. Here are some pointers for care of evaporation trays and some ideas for maintaining the moisture in the air around your plants.
Remove the pebbles from the evaporation tray every two or three months and wash them in a weak bleach solution to remove accumulated salts and algae. Do not add bleach or algaecide to water in the trays when they are in use. Use a sterile sponge to remove any excess water from the evaporation trays after you water your plants. Mist your plants only if they will have plenty of time to dry off before nightfall. Plants themselves are effective humidifiers. Group your plants to create an attractive display and humid microclimate, but don't place them so close that they restrict air circulation.
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Potting
Potting an orchid is fun. You get to hold the plant, look at it from all sides, and prune and wash the roots. Here are some tips to help you master this enjoyable process:
Sift or wash the splinters and dust out of fir bark or tree fern before use. Otherwise, the smallest particles will settle to the bottom of the pot and clog the air spaces. Always sterilize tools with a propane torch before working on each plant to avoid spreading viral diseases from one plant to another. Place a plastic bag over a newly potted plants to help maintain humidity. To allow some air flow, don't close the bag completely, and cut a few small holes in the plastic on all sides of the plant. Don't allow direct sunlight to strike the covered plant the trapped heat will roast it. Never use ordinary, all purpose potting soil for orchids. Label plants immediately after potting them, otherwise names and tags are easily lost and often impossible to match up again. Cymbidium pseudo bulbs are held close together by tough rhizomes. Bend and twist the bulbs apart to separate them, then cut through the rhizome with a knife.
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Watering
Proper watering is the key to success.
Here are some suggestions to help you master this
important aspect of orchid care. Before you water a plant, lift the pot to see how much it weighs. With
some practice, you will be able to tell whether the plant needs water
simply by lifting it. Water your plants in the morning so that the excess water will evaporate rapidly. Normally plants in clay pots or small pots will generally require watering more often than plants in plastic or large pots. You can tell if a pseudo bulbous orchid is receiving enough water by looking at the pseudo bulbs. The youngest pseudo bulb should remain plump, but the older ones may shrink slightly between watering without harm. As a potting medium ages, the air spaces in it shrink, making it retain more water. Thus, newly re-potted plants need to be watered more often than those that have been in the same growing medium for a while. In a collection of many plants, it will help at watering time if those in older potting medium are separated from those that have been recently potted.
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Fertilizer Most fertilizer problems result from too much rather than too little
fertilizer. Keep in mind that in mind. Orchids grow in a lean regime. If the tips of the leaves become dry and blackened. You may be over fertilizing. Cut off the burned tips with sterilized scissors and pour plenty of fresh water through the medium to flush out the excess fertilizer. If the symptoms are severe, re-pot the plant with fresh medium regardless of the time of year. Fertilize only when the plants are actively growing - in other words, fertilize only when the season and growing conditions are conducive to active growth. Always use a measuring spoon when adding fertilizer; guessing leads to over fertilizing! Don't fertilize plants suffering from too little water or damaged roots. Water them with plain water until they recover. Water plants immediately before fertilizing to prevent injury from fertilizer salts. Resist the urge to "push" your plants with extra fertilizer. Extra fertilizer actually stunts plants. It is generally thought that it is better to fertilize orchids with nitrogen derived from sources other than urea. If in doubt about the source, read the label on the container. Until you settle on one or more fertilizers that give you the results you want with your orchids, try products labelled specifically for orchids or purchase the fertilizers sold by specialist orchid growers.
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