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Chiangmai - The Old City
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Chiangmai Old City WallsUnlike earlier Thai Yuan settlements which were oval, the astrological plan for the city called for rectangular moats measuring 18 meters across, with a width of 1800 meters and a length of 2000 meters. Earth from the moats formed ramparts.
At the centre was the city pillar. In Brahmanic cosmology this represented Mount Sumeru, the upward link to heaven at the centre of the universe (this plan was also mirrored in temples where the stupa - the chedi - stood at the centre). The city walls and moats were oriented to the cardinal points and symbolized the mountains and seas of the outer universe. The fate of the city was believed to depend upon the relationship between the centre and the outer guardians at the corners and the gates. To this day ceremonies are held simultaneously at the cardinal points to propitiate these spirits. Chiangmai Old City WallsThe north of the city, Fountain at Chang Phuak Gatewas considered the head of the city and Chang Phuak Gate was used by royalty on state occasions. The south was the rear. Originally only four gates were built, and people would enter the city after crossing the moats on bamboo bridges which could be withdrawn at night.
A further gate was later added in the 15th century. This was Suan Prung gate, which King Sam Fang Kaen  built to allow his mother to travel easily from her palace to supervise the building of the Chedi Luang. This also became the gate to be used for funeral processions from the city.
As the city prospered, villages located near the outer walls, particularly to the south and west, became extensions of the city. Merchants set up businesses along the roads (now Thapae Road and Chang Moi Road) from the landings and bamboo bridges on the river, forming the commercial heart of the city. To protect them an outer system of defense known as the Kampaeng din was added some time after restorations to the city walls were carried out in 1519.
During the two centuries of Burmese occupation, there is little evidence of the city's development. The fortifications seen today were rebuilt by Chao Kawila after he liberated the city at the end of the 18th century. To defend against further attacks by the Burmese, he added the bastions at each corner.

The Old City Today

Thapae Gate in December/JanuaryBarring minor restoration, the overall shape of the bastions on the corners are much as Kawila had built them. At some stage earlier this century, the walls and gates between the corners were dismantled to open up the city, and the bricks were used to pave the roads.
In 1996/7 archaeological excavations were made before the walls near the gates were extensively renovated. At the north-east corner the excavation site Thapae Gate Chiangmaihas been covered with a roof and left open. Bricks dated Buddhist Era 2539 (1996) were placed regularly in the new brickwork.
The present gateways were reconstructed in the late 1960s. Reflecting the importance of commerce, the most commonly used gate for city events today is Thapae Gate. The open concourse in front of the gate is used for anything from beauty contests to political rallies. At each of the corners and gates, modern inscriptions in English give information about each place. These may be found facing the road on the outer side of the moats.

 

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