King Saen Muang Ma began building the Phra Chedi Luang to enshrine the relics of his father at the end of the 14th century, but King Tilokarat completed it. In its day, Wat Chedi Luang must have been the most impressive temple in Chiang Mai. Built about 600 years ago, the huge chedi which give the temple its name must have soared high above the surrounding city. We say "must have" because the chedi was mostly destroyed within a few hundred years of its construction. Some say it was an earthquake in the 17th century that did the deed; others say it was King Taksin's cannons firing on the city to chase out the Burmese in the 18th century. The chedi has been partially reconstructed, but the spire has not been recreated since nobody can be sure what it looked like. It was to remain the tallest structure in Chiang Mai for over 500 years. The present restored chedi is about 60 meters high.

Wat Chedi Luang was also important because for a short time it housed the most important object in Thailand, the Emerald Buddha. The Emerald Buddha is now in its own temple in Bangkok, but a few years ago the king donated a replica to be placed in the eastern niche of the chedi. The other niches are occupied by stone Buddha images. On the southern side, the base is decorated with elephant statues. There are often artists offering their wares in stalls on the large plaza of the chedi. Inside the main Ubosot, the alter is backed by a magnificent standing Buddha. Round whitewashed columns support an unfinished wood roof.

One of the best times to see this chedi is during the Wian Tian ceremony in the evening on one of the main Buddhist festival days. The large viharn was built in 1928. Round columns with bell shaped bases and lotus finials support the high red ceiling inside. The standing Buddha image inside is known as the Phra Chao Attarot. Made of a combination of brass alloy and mortar, the image dates back to King Saen Muang Ma (1385-1401). Buddhist posters are placed along the walls between the windows, and cabinets with Buddha images and Benjarong ceramics line the walls.

The cross shaped hall to the south of the main viharn contains the city pillar. Statues in small shelters surrounding this building are homes of guardian spirits. Legends say that a hermit (whose image is in a shelter on the west side of the building) went to the God Indra to ask for protection for the city from enemies. On condition that appropriate offerings were made, Indrapermitted two kumaphan (mythical human-beast creature) to carry the Inthakhin pillar from the Tavatimsa heaven to the city. Chao Kawila moved the city pillar to its present site from Wat Sadoe Muang in 1800. He built statues of the kumaphan under shelters to the north and south of the main entrance to the temple. He also planted the three large yang  (dipterocarp) trees. According to legend, the tree nearest the city pillar will protect the city as long as it is not cut down.

Other buildings in the compound include the Lanna campus of the MahamakutBuddhist University (This is the northern campus for monks of the Thammayut sect, a reformist sect founded by King Mongkut (Rama IV 1851-1868, who was dissatisfied with the established Mahanikai sect in the late 1830's). To the west of the chedi is a viharn with a reclining Buddha and the Sangkhachai Buddha. From this area an exit leads out onto Chaban Road.